2018: Berlin & Dessau
I arrived in Berlin exhausted and drained from lack of sleep during my stay in Helsinki, but the city immediately perked me up as I discovered the vibrancy and sense of community that missing in Finland.
Saturday
Once I discovered that it was possible to stay in the dorms of the Bauhaus, I quickly booked a room for the first night that I would be in Germany, Saturday. Unfortunately, that entailed taking the nearly 2 hour train there and back on Saturday and Sunday, meaning I wouldn't be in Berlin for the weekend, when all the markets came to life.
The best I could do was head straight to Marheinekeplatz as soon as I landed in Berlin (okay, after boarding the TXL shuttle bus into the city, getting off at the stop that seemed most popular as I still didn't have internet at this point, and tracking down a SIM card), to check out the flea market and the food market hall. From there, I visited the Feuerle Collection, a private art collection housed in a former war bunker which has since been redesigned by John Pawson.
My foray into Berlin, though short, perked me up as I headed south to Dessau, on my design pilgrimage to the Bauhaus.
Always my first stop: open-air markets!
I arrived at the Bauhaus, a short walk from the train station, as the sun was setting and bathing the area in a beautiful golden light.
Sunday
My stay here was wonderful — the air was crisp, the architecture inspiring, but more deeply, its motivations were captivating. I loved being reminded just how ambitious the aspirations of the Bauhauslers were. They aimed to revolutionize the way we lived and the health of future generations, by innovating how we build. The impact this group of architects, furniture makers, weavers, and industrial designers had on the world is staggering. And the school was only active for 14 years!
Alas, my time was much shorter, barely 24 hours. I headed back to Berlin in the late afternoon and made my way to my Airbnb in Mitte, by way of a vegan street food festival taking place at Alexanderplatz and a small flea market. On my way, I passed a building that utilized spent shells as its “cladding” — a clever reuse! I also chuckled at the sight of the friendly neighborhood trash butler.
Shells as building cladding.
Beautiful structures, at every corner.
Charming waste receptacles
Treasures!
I spent the evening wandering around the neighborhood, taking in the sunset from a nearby park. A simple few hours (the sun was setting close to 9:30/9:45), but some of my fondest memories from the trip.
Monday
Monday brought lots of exploring, zigzaging all over the city. A notable highlight was a walking tour, organized through Airbnb, that focused on the built environment, urban planning, and the change in architecture from pre- to post-war and West to East Berlin. It was an enjoyable group of people (certainly the tour description yields a self-selected group who share common traits) and we lingered over dinner for several hours. I walked the 5.8km home, again across a huge swath of the (much larger) city, enjoying the pleasantly warm evenings.
Tuesday
Another day of walking all over the city — I averaged about 15 miles on both Monday and Tuesday. I was determined to take it all in, but so exhausted by the end of the day, that a stop at the photobooth (there are many sprinkled around the city, part of a 2004 resurgence) was the only way I’d let myself rest. I met a friend for drinks and enjoyed having an excuse to sit and chat for a few hours.
Wednesday
Finally a day of "rest" — er, the closest I seem to be able to get to rest. I had my hair cut in the morning, a good way to ensure some quality seated time. I then wandered around, stopping in at different galleries and enjoying lunch at the Chipperfield Kantine. After getting my fill of shops, art, and charming cobbled streets (this is arguably not possible), I dropped into a Berlin bouldering gym to do a little climbing. I finished the evening with dinner al fresco at a simple Vietnamese restaurant. It was a pretty perfect moment.
Loved these colors and textures
!!!
General Thoughts
The Berlin welcome pass worked well for me — easy to buy at the airport upon arrival (cash only) and a fair price. I didn’t utilize any of the tickets or coupons that came with it, but the specials were abundant. The physical ticket was easy to use (I’d show it to the bus driver upon boarding and to ticket checkers on the train). It wasn’t necessary to enter train stations, but I noticed that plain-clothed officers very regularly would board trains to spot check for tickets. I never actually saw them apprehend anyone — apparently Berliners are quite honest and buy their tickets.
The city dwellers seemed noticeably younger and more vibrant than those in Helsinki.
I loved how wide the sidewalks are; they accommodate pedestrians, cyclists, as well as people-watchers seated on the benches and tables outside almost every business. It felt like life was lived on the street.
